If your not sewing another permanent seam across the pleats e. Pressing Pleats… Press the pleats in position, either the full way down the product or just at one edge. Again this will depend on the look you are after! Do you know how to read a sewing pattern?
How to find the right size pattern for your measurements, where to find the finished garment measurements? Work how mu Do you struggle to fit dressmaking patterns to your individual figure? If you do then watch this video and learn the 5 tips you should be applying to improve th What is ease in a dressmaking pattern?
The most basic pleat style that we came across and did not list in the sections above is the regular pleat. It is a simple folded pattern having the fabric doubled up at the top and then secured.
In looking at the image accompanying this description, this form of pleat is simplistic and seems to be the basis for every other pleat design. It is a very simple fold technique that does not require a lot of skill to create. The regular pleat seems to be the design used in most pleated outfits that go on sale each year. Where you draw the most attention when wearing this design, depends on where the material was pleated.
You have different options, for example, the hip, the waist, the bottom, and so on. You get to decide where you want people to look when you wear this style of pleat.
Accordion- this style has a uniform look with the width of each pleat between 3 to 13 mm. All the pleats will be the same width and the same length. The latter option is usually full length from top to bottom of the skirt. Box- this style adds a little shape to the waist area and the pleats are formed by folding two lengths of fabric away from each other. Those folds go in opposite directions. Rolled- when you opt for this style make sure you have lots of fabric in to use.
The folds create a tube and add body and volume to the skirt. Forward-these are found in khakis and dress pants. Their purpose is to add dimension and shape to the front of the legs. The design has the pleats open toward the zipper.
Cartridge- When you want a very voluptuous look to your skirt, blouse, or shirt, this is the style to use. You gather the fabric instead of folding it using two loos threads to pull the fabric together. Honeycomb- these pleats form a honeycomb shape, hence its name. The technique is usually used with smocking and helps create designs on different clothing items.
Organ- if you have seen a pipe organ, then you have seen this style of pleats. The fabric mimics those pipes to create a unique look. There is an even rolling nature to the material. Plisse- made by wetting the material and then drying it under some weight. This technique creates flat, narrow pleats. Kingussie- named for the pleats used in Scottish kilts.
The name of the pleat is the same as a Scottish town and its look is a combination of knife and box pleats. Knife- you may see these on cheerleader uniform skirts. They also overlap each other. Two folds of equal width and sharp pressing create their look.
Other possible pleat styles are the-- sunray, the bias, the fluted, the pinch, the inverted, reverse, the crystal, and the Godet.
Each has its own look to them while also being similar to other pleat styles. Kick pleats - These work with A-line skirts as they provide room for movement. There is also some flexibility in these pleats but still, add fullness.
Another name for this style would be the inverted pleat. We did not find any pleats named easy but we did come across a lot of instructions on how to make pleats in the easiest method possible.
The easiest pleats to make are actually not involving any clothing items. They are used with different styles of drapery and you can make these pleats through a variety of methods.
The easiest may be the grommet style as they are usually clean and uniform. Another curtain style that would be easy to create pleats is the flat curtain option. No pleats are sewn into the fabric, you just move the curtains to where you want them and the pleats appear. The rod pocket is also an easy pleat-making option as you simply push the curtain to either side of the rod to create the narrow or thin pleats you like to look at.
These can go by another name. They are often called rear knife pleats and they are made to go under the yoke and out towards the end of the shoulders. They are not normally used for skirts or dresses but for shirts and blouses. That 2 inches go into the upper back of the shirt while not changing the yoke or chest width measurements. According to some experts, every pleat is a variation of the side pleat, including the ones used in skirts and dresses.
The way to make this style is to simply fold the material to create a flap and then iron it to a side and you have your side pleat. Box pleats are used to create a little more shape to the skirt or the shirt. For men, one box pleat is used in dress shirts in the back at the center of the neckline. For women, it is a simple fold to two different pieces of fabric and those two pieces are folded in opposite directions to add a little shape to the skirt.
The knife pleat, on the other hand, is very small in size and they are turned or pressed in the same direction. While a box pleat will go all the way up, the knife pleat may only extend from the hem to midway up the skirt.
Then the knife pleat gives the wearer a slimming look with a touch of class to the overall design. Once your pleats are formed and pressed in place, you can sew the folds of the pleats with a topstitch or an edgestitch. You will often see topstitching used on garments. For example, pleated skirts are normally topstitched from the waist to the hip. Topstitching is also typical when pleating heavier fabrics, like wool. It also adds a very interesting detail.
Now that you understand how to make a box pleat and an inverted box pleat , you can try this fun option. In order to create an inverted box pleat with an underlay, you have to sew a strip of fabric in between where the folds will meet. If not, you will need to take a few moments to think about the width of your pleats and the size underlay you would need in the middle.
You have to account for the width of the pleat plus the seam allowance on both sides of the strip. The length should simply match the length of your main fabric piece. Do this same math for each pleat , and then remember to include the spacing between pleats if you have more than one. We recommend drawing it out on paper for the best results, and even making a little prototype out of scrap fabrics to test your math. For more about pleating, take a look at our Knife Pleats tutorial as well as our instructions for Wave Tucks.
When commenting, your name will display but your email will not. Pleats and fabric types Pleats are created by folding the fabric at selected intervals or measured widths. Marking pleats A box pleat or inverted box pleat consists of two fold lines and a placement line. Thread basting to mark pleats Place your fabric WRONG side up on a flat surface large enough for your entire fabric piece. Working on the wrong side and using a fabric marking pen, pencil, or chalk along with a clear ruler , mark the fold lines with dotted lines and the placement line where the folds meet with a solid line.
Here again, you can use two different color pencils to help differentiate between the two. The key is not to move the pattern piece too much so as not to skew the placement of the pleats. The marking process is similar. Using a hand needle and thread , run a long basting stitch through the marked lines. Again, you can use two different thread colors. We find this to be very helpful. Match the dotted fold line or blue thread in our sample to the solid placement line or pink thread in our sample.
You are pinching the fabric up in order to match these lines. Then, you are folding it over on itself away from the placement line. Pin, pin ,pin to hold in place. Continue working across the fabric in this same method pinning the folds in place. Move to your ironing board for pressing. Fabric pen or pencil to mark pleats NOTE: For this example, we will demonstrate how to make an inverted box pleat. Working on the right side and using a fabric marking pen, pencil, or chalk along with a clear ruler , mark the fold lines with dotted lines and the placement line where the folds meet with a solid line.
Again, we recommend using two different colors. Pinch and fold the fabric right along the dotted fold line. Then, bring your fold over to the placement line. Repeat for the dotted line to the opposite side of the placement line so you have two folds that meet along the placement line.
Pressing pleats Depending on the size of your pleated fabric piece, you may need to take extra care when transferring the fabric from your work table to your ironing board. NOTE: Remember to remove your basting stitches.
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